Tie dye wool shawls stoles are
great for every day use. They are tough and do
not wear out easily. Women in India loosely wear
it over the shoulders, upper body and arms,
sometimes also over the head. These shawls are
made of rough wool. The main colors used in the
tie dye of this region are yellow, green, red and
back - lighter colors are always dyed before the
darker ones. The cloth may be the finest silk
(the best tie dye is done on silk, for the
weddings of the Khatri dyers' own daughters) or
rough wool, but usually it is very permeable
muslin which is folded in four before the tying
process commences. This is supervised by the head
of the family, but all the members, including the
women and children, are involved. Those who
actually tie the cloth grow a long nail on the
little finger of the left hand, or wear a ring
with a little blunt spike on it, with which they
push the layers of cloth upwards from underneath
to form a tiny peak.
Some details of coloring are spot dyed: yellow
dots are often daubed with blue to make green,
for example. Dyers in Kutch and Saurashtra
commonly work with three or four different dye
baths. The workers of Saurashtra origin generally
produce patterns of fine spiraling dots in a
single color on a deep red ground. The major
textile crafts of the settled area of Kutch in
Gujarat are Bandhani (tie and dye) and block
printing. Coming from the Hindi word bandhan
meaning to tie, this technique has a self
explanatory name. Bandhani or Bandhej is the name
of the tie and dye technique used commonly in the
region.
The fabric is tied at various places with
the help of a thread, in a way that it makes some
pattern. After the tying is done, the fabric is
dipped in the desired color. After it is
completely dried, the ties are opened and the
amazing designs come to reality. The threads
prevent the tied area from absorbing the color
and hence the desired pattern is realized. This
also includes the resist dyed and printed ajrakh.
It is a technique by which the very traditional
looking colorful scarves and stoles are created.
They have very special significance in marriages.
The village weavers produced for the local
community while the master craftsmen created
specially for the royalty and the wealthy. In
addition to shawls, many other apparel including
salwar kurtas, lehenga cholis, kurtis etc are
also made in tie and dye. In India wool shawls
are worn for added warmth and fashion at outdoor
or indoor evenings.